Monday, June 8, 2015

Back boards part 2

So were we left off, I had cut a bunch of 1/2 in thick boards at 5-1/2 wide X 27 in long.
But first I have a few things to work out;

Problem 1- I did not added a third back rail near the drawer shelves, so if I want some support for the bottom of the back boards, I either have to cut a rabbet or I reduce the width of the shelf, so that I can extend my back boards down to something I could fasten to.

Problem 2- I did not positioned my top back rail flush with the back and cut a rabbet at the bottom.
Which means that my back boards are going to be under the top French cleat part, forget about removing them to reposition the holders. These would have to be fixed.
Better get it right :-)

Problem 3 - I was going to leave the back of the drawers bank opened, but I have to attach solidly the bottom spacer for the French cleat system.

1- Cut the back of the drawers top shelf flush with the side rabbet.
Adjust the length of the drawers dividers before gluing them in.
2-  Too bad, so sad. Back boards will be fixed, and my saw kerf's boards (2) would be fixed first.
But to ensure that the French cleat part does not prevent the back board to expand/contract, I think I may glue a top piece to create that rabbet I missed. That will also mean I have to trim their length a bit.
3- Bottom spacer for French cleat system, will leave a gap for air to escape.
Piece has to be wide enough to be able to screw till to it inside the drawers compartments

Meanwhile, I played with beaders and rabbets to visualize my ideas.

That is about the right size I want for my beads

And same for the rabbet, 1/2 in wide, 1/4 in deep.
How did that beer got in there ? :-)

Combining both

Next, I needed another piece for making the matching part. But there were knots on both sides, so I simply ripped one side off to remove the knot

That Disston D8 is an awesome ripping machine.
If you look at the cut surface you can see how my first cut are closer spaced (starting the cut) then very wide apart (ripping away) then getting closer again (slowing down to finish)
Pretty square cut also, The combination of the saw bench with a proper handsaw 
for the task is really a big help. But for sure it is a bit low, should have been 19 inch not 16, Duh!

The cut surface was first cleaned up with my Rabbet plane since it is set at 1/2 in.
It is leaving a whisker of wood, that is the combination of errors from the thickness of 1/2 in board plus the setting of the fence on the rabbet plane. Close enough.

Then I planed it off on the reverse direction with a block plane.
Flat and square, ready for the joinery.

Both board together at last :-)
The resulting profile.
Note that one of my test board is 3/4 in thick, but you get the idea

I also played with numbers to figured out my optimum back boards width. They don't have to be 5-1/2, but I cannot go wider :-)
4 -1/2 giving me a 4 inch reveal spacing, is about bang on.

So I have to recut all my pieces down to 4-1/2 in...
I may ended up short a board? Will see, I also have to work around the knots on my boards.

Today, we made good progress on my friend Ensuite bathroom project. His wife is deployed right now, so he send her pictures for progress reports every day. So of course, I had to photo bomb one of them :-)

Plumbing completed, cement boards up, then showed him how to 
mixed & put the first coat, Durabond 90.

At this rate we should be done before her return...Which is the plan!

Bob, the drywaller


  1. I like the beaded ship lap detail. Any plans to put bevel on the non beaded board that butts up against the beaded one?

  2. No I did not think of that. Maybe Ill try , see how it look