Some progress, more waiting...

Today I was resolute in my drive to get that damn arbor nut off, on her small table saw.

Looking online was useless.  Yes, found out part numbers and saw pictures of the wrench Yadi Yada but nowhere does anyone ever mentioned what bloody size it is. Size is still a mystery 

Model 36-540C Type 2

First thing, regroup and see what I got here

7/8 (14/16) is too small, by a smidge

My next size up is 1 inch (16/16), too wide

I have a small set of Metric wrench (by necessity) my biggest are 20 and 22 mm

22 mm is a bit small

So it is either 23mm or 15/16.  Are there such sizes wrench?

Went out and found a 15/16 open end wrench, there were no 23 mm, next size up was 24mm

My assortment of test wrenches.

Dad would be annoyed at me.

You are supposed to be able to just look at it know what size it is.

He knew all his SAE sizes by look. That has never worked for me...

The shiniest, 15/16 is my new one.

Back home 15/16 fit loosely but enough to be able to finally back off the nut.

The arbor is facing the opposite direction as my Unisaw

That is because it is a left tilting saw.

So what size can it be? 23mm??  Is there another size in SAE?

Turns out that YES on both count

There is a 29/32 inch wrench, which is 0.906 inch in decimal.

23 mm is also 0.906 inch in decimal.

I learn something every day...

Oh, and I found  out that I already had a 15/16 in wrench, so I'll just leave one with the saw :-)

I will probably have more luck finding a 23mm wrench than a 29/32 inch one??

I'll keep an eye out for it in my travels.

BTW the problem with the tablesaw arbor nut is that it is often overtighten by Gorillas which strip the nut. I rarely see damages threads on the arbor itself, Pheww.

By its design, reverse threads, as soon as the blade first spin, it tighten itself more.

If you already went Gung Ho on it, no matter, it will tighten even more and be a real ^%$%# fun to back off.  Please don't do that or I'll smack you behind the head.  Probie (Gibbs on NCIS :-)

Thankfully on her tablesaw, it was not overtighten and came out as it should.  Blade installed was a replacement blade.  Whomever put that blade on, did it correctly.

Put on my sanding disk on the tablesaw.  I was going to dust it first, but then I thought Nah, centrifugal forces will do that fast enough :-)

Sanding disk installed.

Because of its rigidity, it's a thick piece of steel, and being flat, 

it also makes a great reference surface to align the saw.

No teeth in the way, no taper in the blade, it's flat.

I only put paper on one side.

I wanted to used it to trim the sides of my completed holders.

Work like a charm, in no time did I made scorching marks, Oups.

Today is not too cold, actually above Zero C for a change, about 4C.

So decided it may be my best time to spray some finish on my pieces.  Simply for protection, in a bid to keep them cleaner looking longer :-)  I sprayed a Satin Polyurethane in the garage in my sophisticated, portable spray booth.  Ventilation is provided by very leaky doors, scheduled to be replaced, next year.

3 of my new holders done

Drilling accessories, stubby screwdrivers and hammer holders

After at least one hour of drying I moved them downstairs, much more warmer, will dry faster.

I removed a few holders that were on the walls and removed their previous attachments devices

Older holders that were modified last for using on pegboards.

They were originally screwed to the wall in a previous shop.

I will recycled them for French cleats but will not be gluing and screwing, just screws.

Keeping them, yet reversible.  Just because

That is how deep the hooks were driven inside the hardwood.

I predrilled but it was still a tight fit.  Hence the importance of drilling in between  the tools

 

My pile of recycled holders.

Except for the mallet holder in the back (now drying)

 the remainders all need a backing board before I install the cleat 

. Why?  Because they are too narrow, need the back board to support on the cleats

As I am making the required alterations for using them on cleats I also pay attention to their content and the ability to be able to remove it from the wall and putting it down on the bench.  To be self supporting.  Not all of them need that, but some would be more practical if they were.

My first attempt is the drilling accessories holder.  Is a tad long and narrow. It is gaining girth (width) by the backing board and has a top cleat. I made my side so the whole assembly sit flat with enough clearances under for the stems of the tooling.  Seems stable.  Will soon know once loaded and put to use. Wondering if I should do likewise for a small set of chisels and marking gauges??

I will be experimenting for a little while before I settle down to something that works for me.  Why I want the flexibility of French Cleats.  And I enjoy making various holders for my tools.

So I now have 4 holders drying and 6 in progress.

Meanwhile, looking up replacement parts for my Porter Cable Model 371K small 14 in belt sander, found out that part is discontinued and no longer available.  Isn't that special! (pronounced a la Church Lady SNL) 

Just like I thought, the rubber sleeve comes with the roller

Said roller assembly is apparently no longer manufactured.

Way to go Porter Cable, you really stand behind your products...NOT! Grrrr...

Funny, my old Craftsman 3X21 belt sander had a solid rubber wheel, this much newer one had only a thin rubber sleeve over a machined aluminum roller.  It sure did not last very long before cracking.  The older rubber wheel did not suffer such catastrophic damages.  Something to look for next time, if ever, I replace it.

If anyone has such a driver wheel assembly to part with, I'm listening...

Not too impressed with that small sander.  The belts were always a problem to source locally, had to go to the city to find them (Busy Bee), they finally trickled down in the valley but limited supply and hit and miss.  Now? Nada! And harder to find anywhere.  Yes, Busy Bee still have them but selection is not what it used to be.  I guess it never became much of a popular model and was never cloned en masse for the people, by the people machines :-)

So just how long are manufacturer required to provide repairs parts?  The answers varies from countries and items.  Car about 10 years others 7 years, some none at all, you are lucky if you can get parts

https://www.policyalternatives.ca/publications/monitor/when-will-canadians-have-right-repair

Down the road, I will replace the garage doors and insulate the garage, maybe eventually add some heat/cooling source... if I'm still around by then.  But for now, I am going to move the portable power tools inside the house.  I either get stiff plastic power cords or very limp rubber power cords which crack quickly in the cold.  And everything in between. Yes, it is cold at time around here.

Welcomes to Canada, comes for the scenery, stay because your car wont start :-)

Montreal early 70s

That is a parking ticket plus towing for snow removal ;-)

Bob, annoyed at Porter Cable