As before, my boards had a flat (ish) face and square edge. That was accomplished by using a combination of hand planes and power jointer. Surface quality be damn, but I then had a flat face and one square edge to proceed to the next machines.
The machines I used: Going CCW, Unisaw, 24 In bandsaw, 32 in drum sander
I checked the tension on the large bandsaw blade but I was still having drift issues, Checked the fence, a smidgen out of square, humm. Not touching it, we have a dedicated maintenance man looking after our machinery. Everybody else is hands off if there is a problem. Write it up in the maintenance log and he will get to it.
Rockwell Delta 24 in bandsaw
The small kerf I had helped, but it was only deep on the first 3 inches or so on each ends. Had to come back from the other side and still ended up with one taper board.
For my last board I ran a saw kerf about 2-1/2 in deep on each long sides on the Unisaw.
Ran two passes to achieved my depth. Or one would be asking for burning marks :-)
Did not bother on the ends pieces, for two reasons.
1- Safety. Running the board on the short end balancing a long board is not safe.
2- Not needed. The two deep curves leaves only a thin narrow web in the center of my board, it was more than enough to guide the bandsaw blade and kept it centered.
That produced my best boards so far, meaning less work afterward.
As per my previous attempts, I ran all my boards thru the drum sander to get an uniform thickness.
Once I was getting the cut side flat, I flipped the boards over to cleaned up the flat (ish) side.
they were ran thru until they had the same thickness as my other rough cut pieces.
I now have enough material prepared for making 2 boxes, with some spares
From the two long boards in the middle to the right, my stock for the boxes.
To the left, spare materials including my two tapered boards
Back home, now the next steps is cleaning up the surfaces, with a combination of a high angle blade in my LV BU jack and scrapers. Hopefully, I'll be able to get a good surface tear free (?) if not I'll have to resort to sandpapers. Probably a combination of both in the end.
The current surface left by the drum sander.
You can see small ridges.
My biggest challenges would be in matching the grains/figures. It is quite varied from boards to boards.
When Matthew asked how I was planning to assemble the boxes, I told him, dovetailed of course.
He told me he would like to learn how to do that.
Music to my ears. Of course, we will do his fist ones in pine not figured maple :-)
I try to use each project we do together to introduce him to his tools selections I put aside for him.
We discussed his next project, it would be a rectangular box to hide the cord mess below the big screen TV.
He want to dovetail that box. Surely overkill, but he his my son, Overbuilt everything !! :-)
Now its been a while I did dovetails in hardwood, I usually bang them out in pine, which is a lot more forgiving.
I think I would be wise to makes some practice cuts in scrap pieces first before I commit
Bob, getting ready for Rotary business.