Showing posts with label Resaw lumber. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Resaw lumber. Show all posts

Monday, May 27, 2019

Resaw completed

Saturday my son Matt came down for a visit, we took two boards to the wood shop and finish resawing.

As before, my boards had a flat (ish) face and square edge.  That was accomplished by using a combination of hand planes and power jointer.  Surface quality be damn, but I then had a flat face and one square edge to proceed to the next machines.

The machines I used: Going CCW, Unisaw, 24 In bandsaw, 32 in drum sander

I checked the tension on the large bandsaw blade but I was still having drift issues,  Checked the fence, a smidgen out of square, humm.  Not touching it, we have a dedicated maintenance man looking after our machinery.  Everybody else is hands off if there is a problem.  Write it up in the maintenance log and he will get to it.

Rockwell Delta 24 in bandsaw


The small kerf I had helped, but it was only deep on the first 3 inches or so on each ends.  Had to come back from the other side and still ended up with one taper board.

For my last board I ran a saw kerf about 2-1/2 in  deep on each long sides on the Unisaw.
Ran two passes to achieved my depth.  Or one would be asking for burning marks :-)
Did not bother on the ends pieces, for two reasons.
1- Safety.  Running the board on the short end balancing a long board is not safe.
2-  Not needed.  The two deep curves leaves only a thin narrow web in the center of my board, it was more than enough to guide the bandsaw blade and kept it centered.

That produced my best boards so far, meaning less work afterward.

As per my previous attempts, I ran all my boards thru the drum sander to get an uniform thickness.
Once I was getting the cut side flat, I flipped the boards over to cleaned up the flat (ish) side.
they were ran thru until they had the same thickness as my other rough cut pieces.

I now have enough material prepared for making 2 boxes, with some spares

From the two long boards in the middle to the right, my stock for the boxes.
To the left, spare materials including my two tapered boards

Back home, now the next steps is cleaning up the surfaces, with a combination of  a high angle blade in my LV BU jack and scrapers.  Hopefully, I'll be able to get a good surface tear free (?) if not I'll have to resort to sandpapers.  Probably a combination of both in the end.


The current surface left by the drum sander.
You can see small ridges.

My biggest challenges would be in matching the grains/figures.  It is quite varied from boards to boards.

When Matthew asked how I was planning to assemble the boxes, I told him, dovetailed of course.
He told me he would like to learn how to do that.

Music to my ears.  Of course, we will do his fist ones in pine not figured maple :-)
I try to use each project we do together to introduce him to his tools selections I put aside for him.
We discussed his next project, it would be a rectangular box to hide the cord mess below the big screen TV.
He want to dovetail that box. Surely overkill, but he his my son, Overbuilt everything !! :-)

Now its been a while I did dovetails in hardwood, I usually bang them out in pine, which is a lot more forgiving.
I think I would be wise to makes some practice cuts in scrap pieces first before I commit

Bob, getting ready for Rotary business.



Thursday, May 23, 2019

Further adventures in resawing

So were I left last nite, I was only a couples inches from both ends.  Considering, my board is roughly 21 X 8 inches I have a way to go and I am starting to drift right.  Need some course correction.

When I face a problem I like to mull it over a good glass of cold beverage by the relaxing 
sound of a fire, which erases previous woodworking masterpieces screwups.
So relaxing :-)


One idea that keep pooping up was why not give that frame resaw a try.  The blade is rusty, a bit dull and the some tooth misshapen, but what the Heh!

Yes it works surprisingly well, but I could sure uses more space around it.

Tried from both sides, still a bit off body position, that cannot be good.

Lets try a different vice in the garage.

My record Auto vice No 74

I went for this one because it is my only bench vice that rotate.  Hoping to get a better angle at my piece of wood.

RECORD AUTO VICE No 74

Before they got into plane making, Record was mostly producing vices. C&J Hampton trading as Record tools, manufactured various patterns of vices.  Mechanics vices, steel vice, cast iron vices, over 91 types / models for various trades: Mechanics, pipe fitters, woodworkers etc
Most Record vices we are familiar today are painted (enamel) blue, but back then they also used red to distinguished the cast steel ones (Red) from the cast iron ones (Blue)

The Auto vice No 74 was a 4 in wide jaw X 4-1/2 in opening, made with special features for car mechanics, hence the name Auto (vice) for No 74 and Garage (vice) for No 75

Auto vice No 74

 There was also a bigger brother the No 75

Auto vice No 75

Brochure extolling special features of vice.

On mine there is a patent number/date 310723/28.  Lets have a look under British patents



The rotating base is activated by loosening the large wing nut,  lift the vise body rotate right or left and drop back into preset casting.

You can see the preset positions in the fixed plate casting.
That one has the optional vise jaws liners (a pair).
Pic from EBay

Back to our resawing in progress...

Vice rotated as far as practical to get a good clearances in front.

Using the saw smaller kerf, I was able to coax the cut line back in.
In use I put my arms on each long sides, easier to balance.

Cut line restored, I'm happy.


This saw cut amazingly well, in spite of itself !!
And I got enough clearances for a full stroke.

Pulled all the way.

Pushed all the way.

You really get to used just about the whole saw plate.

Holding the board vertically is another story.
The board up front push back on the forward stroke.



Flipping the board in the back position of the vise, it pull back on the return stroke if you don't eased up enough on the saw frame.
OK, not ideal, but that was interesting results.  I am going to built some sort of saw bench to handle this type of resaw.  It works amazingly fast and is easy to balance the saw, you quickly get the hang of it.

As this type of frame resaws goes, mine is a bit on the smallish sizes.


The frame is about 37-1/2 in high.

The blade is about 29-1/2 in long.

Considering my board is 21 in long and my saw blade 29-1/2 in long, I cannot give a long enough push or pull to clear all the saw dust between the teeth.

The bade is shining up from its work out.
Looks at the saw dust hanging between some teeth, 
they never exit the wood to expel.

Its smaller kerf and 5 TPI makes it quite fast, faster than my former speed demon, Disston No D8.
BTW, I answered Ralph in a previous comment that the D8 was 5 TPI, its not, see pics.

Disston D8 3 TPI / 4 PPI
Notice some tooth are starting to get misshapen, Mea Culpea.
I tend to quickly touch up my teeth between full sharpening session were the teeth will be restored.
Its a lazy habit to just sharpen the tip, but it work for me.  I pay the piper later.

The frame resaw blade 1 in wide 5 TPI.  
Notice the changing tooth shapes, someone is lazier than me :-)
Upon close inspection, the blade is in better shape than expected
and it works, bonus !

So after all that, my kerfs are brought back in line and I am down about 3 some inches on both sides
21 - (3+3) = 15 inches to go... a subdue yeah!!!

I can see power tools in a near future to the rescue, I'm a bit constrained by time.

A fun experience nonetheless and surprising results.

Bob, overdue for a nap

Wednesday, May 22, 2019

Adventure in resawing

I've put my riving effort on temporary hold to get going on a pressing project.
In need to make one, then suddenly, two boxes for a friend.  Special boxes...

For that task, I was given a few special boards coming out of their father's shop.
They are shorts of rough 4/4 boards of quilted and bird's eye maple, mostly and something that look like some sort of Mahogany??

The original plan was to turn pens for all the siblings, but now I need two less pens and two boxes :-(

My first plan was of course to resaw them on our large bandsaw at the wood shop on base.
Quick and simple...

Well,... sorta. I got some boards alright but smaller stock than expected.

Two similar rough boards gave me the small pile of lumber on the right,
 rough cut to my dimension.  Out of it, I got two long sides and one short side, 
I'm short one side for only one box.  And that board in the back

Which, as Rudy is pointing out, is quite tapered
The salvageable length is not the same thickness as my other boards

This is the end thickness I came up with.
Great from my project but material and time consuming.

That bandsaw was really drifting and cupping as judged by my cuts results, while it stay on top and followed my line on top.  Should had check on the tension first I suppose?? Duh!
It was tight, but apparently not tight enough?

Plan B resaw at home by hand,  No biggy, done it before.
Except that these are not pine boards but figured hard maple.

Since I already had the saw out and ready for sharpening, 
may as well touch it up before removing it.

I do have another antique frame resaw but the blade need some attention, a lot more than my daily user, Disston No 8

Option No 3, need some work before
 getting back to earning its keep.
Maybe find or make a new blade??


My boards are a good 1-1/8 inch strong. 

Next was to establish a mark all around centered on the board to aid in resawing.
But what to use, I do not have a resaw plane ...yet...
A quick peek a boo into the magical willow basket of gauges and I came up with this gauge


Stanley No 65 circa early 60s with a full length pin

That worked pretty good, took a few passes 
and encountered a few tricky spots.

Next how to deepen it? That would not be sufficient to guide the saw plate.
Carving and using the saw plate did it for me

I used small palm sized Japanese carving tool
A single bevel knife first to deepen the cut then 
the V groove gouge to enlarged it for the saw plate 

A tad messy but it works.
Notice the stray cut parallel to the colored streak.
Just jumping to follow the grain line.

Dragged the saw plate back and forth to widen
 and deepen the cut.  Shown final depth on one edge

Then it was sawing in diagonals the corner, flipping the board back and forth
cutting across 


Until I finally went down a good two inches...finally, hard maple sure as heck does not resaw as easily as pine :-)

By then I was starting to drift on both sides, time to correct.
At this rate I may have to rethink the power saw options

Were I stopped, about two inches down

Starting to drift right

I am getting 1/2 inch thick boards out of it


Another option on the back burner

And then all too soon it was time to quit and get ready for the grand kids visit :-)

Bob, and Rudy tidying up before they arrived with Grandma

Monday, November 5, 2018

If a tree could talk...

First a disclaimer.  I'm no expert on the subject, just my understanding of the science at work.
Oh, and I am an old fart... and tree do reveal secrets:-)


Ah the color and figure of a piece of wood! It is enough to send the heart of a woodworker racing and his forehead pearling with sweat... And then you go in La la Land thinking about what you could do with such a piece.

Why is that? This object of desire for a woodworker was never cheap!   Lots of labour and time between the tree standing and the boards ready to be worked on at your bench.

Yet, to this day, many still hold the common piece of wood as being cheap!
As in: Ah, it should not cost much to build that out of wood, why so much??
Because it is not made of termite barf (OSB, MDF) being solid wood and constructed solidly (No Allen keys required), it should outlast us all... would be one reason

Even if using all "Free wood" there is a lot of time and experiences that goes behind building something out of "wood".
Never mind the cost of the specialized tools required and assorted supplies to be used

But there are no such thing as "Free wood", each steps between the cutting down of the tree until being finally worked on your bench are all going to affect somewhat the final product, in both form and function and of course, its price!

To this day, the most "Dramatic" operation, remains the sawing into lumber.  That is where the sawyer can  make or break a saw mill operation, by the decisions he take about were to cut into the lumber.
Maximise yield, or waste a lot.  Yes, he was a valuable man, and the better paid in the whole crew.
You can often spot the sawyer in a group picture, by the way he is dress and were he stands, being the better paid man.

GOING BACK IN TIME

Trees are a part of the botanical family, they are a plant.
Some trees are among the oldest thing still living today on this earth. They have been around a long long time, and know a awful lot about what happened around them all these years..
Baobabs  tree over 2000 years old and still youngsters to some.
A list of the oldest known trees    Not all older trees have a large girth.

Where they grow, the climate encountered thru its living years and the ravages of Mother Nature: Strong gusting winds (produce shakes), growing on an incline (tension wood), flood (rot), forest fires (scars in tree rings) periods of draught (slow growth) etc. are all recorded inside the tree.
Similarly, the effects from man: Cutting or breaking branches, feeding it etc. are also being "recorded" inside the tree (knots, metal objects, tree rings anomalies, burning marks)

This Silver Birch had a severe lean, about 45 degrees, but was still reaching out for the sun.
The combination of yearly icy snow loads took a toll on it and how it grew.
That would results in a lot of stress built up in the tree trunk, just awaiting to get the unwary at the tablesaw. It is called reaction wood



The science behind all this is called Dendrochronology, the science of the tree rings and dating.


Knowing how the tree rings are formed, yearly, seeing the rate of growth (the demarcation between the Early wood (Spring) and Late wood (Fall)) enable us to count the number of years contained inside the tree. Because most trees around the same geographical region are impacted the same by the local weather conditions, by comparing the rate of growth in the rings to other local specimens help dating a piece of wood and establish its likely provenance.

Pretty cool heh!

This is possible because most trees have a definite differences between the early wood and late wood
That difference is in the size and density of the cells caused by the various growth rates. In the Spring the new growth on the foliage and the warmer temperatures combined to produce rapid growth.
The spacing between the rings is large.

In order to grow in both girth and height, a tree need to be fed.
Trees are nourished by the photosynthesis taking place on the green foliage by the action of the sun.
It caused water molecules to be evaporated in the day time. This in turn is pulling up water and its nutrient found around the tree roots system, via capillary action.
Hint that is why you always water/nourish a tree at his root ball (drip line around the tree), not via the foliage.

The added growth layer around the tree girth happened more like a cone shaped than a true cylinder.
The tree is larger at the trunk and smallest at the top. Layers are piling cones over cones
That is what create the familiar cathedral figure in flat sawn lumber

Maple on top, Apple on the bottom.
Both pieces of wood are oriented the same, the top of the tree is to the left,
as indicated by the grain forming cathedrals



Looking at "end grain"
My bundle of straw representing wood cells. The various colors represent the growth rings
Due to its cellular nature wood can hold water in both the "straw" inside of cell (free water) and within the cell structure of the "straw" Bound water.
These swelling and shrinking cell walls are what causes wood movements.

Ice cream cones give us a better representation of the true shape of the outer layers being added on 




Since they are more cone shape than a true cylinder
Not to scale obviously, but you get the idea



This rapid growth experienced in the spring leaves tell tales larger spacing between the rings.
Conversely, as the colder weather approaches in the fall, the Deciduous trees change the colors of their leaves then loose their foliage to slow down the growth activity.  The tree is dormant for the winter, experiencing little new growth.
The tree rings are smaller and closer together, hence often darker.
Our North American Deciduous trees need to drop the level of sap in the colder weather, or they will suffer frost damages.

Deciduous trees drop their foliage, while evergreen keep theirs.
The pines in the background are about 80 + feet high.
The cluster of Silver Birch in the foreground are saplings 
that grew around the tree trunk that was cut


Evergreen have "build-in antifreeze".  Pine sap extract is Turpentine, a wood alcohol, hence do not need to go dormant as fast nor as long. But they still produced clearly defined yearly rings.
The combined number of early and late growth rings produced in a year.

Harder to see on a rough surface, but you can clearly see and count some of the rings.
The space between these darker rings represent one year of growth, since these darker's one happened every fall. You can clearly see that the growth was not even around the tree.

How much sun reached the tree on what side, is enough to record a difference in the growth pattern. 


The center of the trees are darker since clogged with sap.
These being cut in June, they were saturated at the time they were cut down.
But the center, Heartwood, is naturally darker than the Sap wood on the outer layers of the tree.
That is because as the tree grows on the outwards layers, the inside one goes dead and clogged with sap residues, imparting a darker color. Very noticeable in Walnut.

Near Comox BC, late 90s
The dead wood inside, remains sounds for a long time imparting strength to the tree trunk.
But in some quick growing and long living wood like Western Red Cedar, the inside simply rot away
revealing a big hollow when cut

Of course, tropical forest Deciduous trees do not experience as much of a climate change, but they do go thru periods of dryness and wetness (monsoons) and produce yearly rings. Relatively few, such as Teak, have visible rings. The "invisible ones" can be still detected, but not by our mere eyes.

Looking at two species, domestic and exotic


This exotic wood, barely shows, but there are faint, hard to see rings

In contrast, this piece of American Walnut, shows strong late years rings.
There is about 10 years captured in this piece of wood, but which ten years??

Lets have a closer look, since we have the technology :-)
Again, both same pieces of wood, same orientation



Exotic (Honduras Mahogany??)
The darker ring is not well defined and hard to tell were it start and end??

American Black Walnut
The more defined blacker line is the late growth year.
Between it and the next one equal one year of growth

In both these high magnification snap shots, the small white lines, criss-crossing the darker lines are radial lines, radiating from the tree core. They give rise to the gleaming ray flecks on beech, depending how cut..

It is via these lines that the sap travel to feed the outer cambium layer
The big round openings dispersed throughout are resin ducts

Here is a view of the same two wood, showing theses ducts on the surface

Exotic

Walnut
These ducts are showing sap residues which has long crystallized.
They contains minerals and some woods have a high contains of silica, 
which is murder on a sharp edge

These two views, from the end grain and the top face also shows why wood glued on end grain is weak as compared to long grain to long grain glue surfaces. All the holes on the end will soak up more stain (making end grain darker) and have lots of "holes" with no glue surface


AND WHY SHOULD WE CARE AS WOODWORKERS??

Because then you can tell a lot about a piece of wood in your hands...
What it would be best as in, which orientation, problems areas, expected stability, workability with hand or power tools, you name it!!

This piece of pine is standing up the way it was inside the tree.
Notice the whiter sap on the outer edge?
See anything wrong with this board??

Now look at the grain lines.
The LH side lines are almost horizontal, while they are almost vertical on The RH side.
That tell us that the LH side will experience more change in dimension than the RH side and the board would not take an even stain.  Nor would it cup the same across the board (pun intended).
 I would probably not use this board as is and certainly not as a drawer side

Identifying a piece of wood enables us to have a look at its specifics characteristics
Besides its weight and beam strength, one of the most interest to us, are its dimensional stabilities.
That is to say, how much is it going to move in a given orientation with changes in humidity.
Wood is hygroscopic, it absorb and release water in order to achieved the same humidity level as its surroundings.

Knowing this we can account for wood movement and ensure a sound construction that will not self destruct.


This frame and panel door, I made with a cope and stick router bit set, 
fail open at one corner. 
I did not allowed enough clearances in the frame to allow for seasonal expansion.
The same reason why wooden drawers stick in their opening sometimes.
And ironically it would not had fail if my shop dehumidifier did not fail me first...
.
In case you wonder, I always stain my panel edges before putting them inside the frame.
It avoid tell tale whitish lines when the panel contract.

Armed with the knowledge of various wood species, you can select the better resistant woods for outside project, which orientation make then more stable (flatsawn versus quartersawn) and much more to better build long lasting projects.

Reading the grain directions let us anticipate with direction it will plane best without tearout.
Although I will admit that it is sometimes tricky, but you quickly find out while working it...

And this bring us to today, to my lovely pile of freshly milled lumber awaiting to dry before talking to me. Drying and storing wood, a subject for another day...



Bob, who has a busy Monday coming up
But first, were is the ice cream :-)