You know the drill...

Field strip, de-rust, scrape/strip paint, paint, scrape some more, touch ups then lubricated and re-assemble.  Since My No 1980  has a  solidly frozen up gears selectors (HI-Lo speed), I took it apart and soak it in Evaporust for a few days, tried to budged it, re-soaked, repeated until I finally rinsed and stopped the process.  Frame, gears, selector knurled outer shell, came out pretty clean, but still refused to budge.  There is some slack, I can start to turn it a bit, but not forcing it.
I am going to have to drive the pin out and break it open to fix it... for another day.
It is currently stuck in the hi speed gear (outer gear on gear wheel) and is purring along.

Meanwhile the frame look pretty bare now, so may as well repaint it.
Had some glossy black rust paint and a red rust paint that look like a pretty close match to MF red.
Currently drying after its second red and black coats.

Screw the handle partly on to help balance the tool 

First coat the nite before

Looking at it and the others I took out the other day for a size comparison.

The ones I got out the other day. 

 T to B

MF No 1, 5, 2, 1980, 12

I decided that they looked pretty bleak and should be repainted
Starting with the number 2

Pictured as found, was previously cleaned and de rusted.

Not much red survived, what was left was washed out.

Comparison of repaint No 1980 wheel and No 2.

You can see some big bare spots on the frame also.

Of course could not stop there, since I already had the paint and brushes out :-)
No 1 was next.  I long resisted painting it cause it is a rather not found often specimen (had a very short production years 1878-1880)
.
She got water damages in storage and had to de-rusted and cleaned again, frame is pretty bare, and need protection.  I strike a balance on this one.  Frame got repainted black, gear wheel did not, it still has most of its original paint for references.

No 1 as found, frame was pretty bare to start with.

No 5 as found

This No 5 had a good paint surface on the gear wheel so I left it alone

Again as a reference.

I may try touching up the other side to see how close of a color match I have

Of course after watching Ralph work on his MF 85, I got inspired and carried away...slightly.

The number 12 breast drill (the bottom one a previous pic) required green rust paint, which I do not have for the gear wheel.  Later models switched to the familiar red.

All four are now cooking, as Ralph would say :-)

The crime scene as left

All 4 gear wheels.

The No 1 and No 5 (smallest wheels) 

still have their original finishes

Now as the paint dry, I start to scrape a few spots were paint does not belong, while pondering what to do with the handles.  They are in good shape, have been previously cleaned and the wood parts had a coat of my Howard products (refinisher and wax), but I am dying to try that True Oil product.  So that is what I will do.  Interestingly all four sport a different wood specie handle.  From Cocobolo, Rosewood, some tropical hardwood and domestic hardwood stained.

Looking at those 4 hand drills they span from the No 1A (1878-1880), the No 2 (1917-1928), the no 5 (1925-1930),  the No 1980 (1925-1930)  Except for the No 1A which had a short production years, the others dates are the period my specimens dated from, not their production years.

So now as I watch the paint dry with my goofie face on, I been told that congratulation, I now have my first pajama work shirt.  There is a spot of red on it.  I'm sure there are a few black ones too but they don't show on a black shirt.  Oups busted! I thought no point waiting to get change this AM, I'll just be careful ... Famous last words :-)

Its been quite a few hours, I'm long out of my jammies and trying to resist the urge to scrape some paint off :-)

Bob, with a growing work clothes wardrobe.
Apparently I am due to purge my closet :-)

Millers falls No 1980 ratcheting hand drill

A pure luck hazard, the sign says no yard sales until further notice but there was this guy out standing in the field.... and this is what I found :-)

There were three models of two speed hand drill from Millers Falls, they were
the Model No 98, 980 and 981
The differences being in the handle
The other two speed models introduced in the MF line up came from Goodell-Pratt.

No 98

1913-1922

Flat top handle like a No 2

No 980

1913-1944

Same but bulbous handle

No 980D

1922-1925

Same as No 980 but first model that came with twist drill bits

Handle shown is a different vintage variation

Notice the addition of a third idler gear (1917).

The 2 above illustrated, only had 2 gears (1913-1916)

No 981

1913-1917

Came with a detachable breast plate

Drawings above from oldtoolheaven site

Later on they introduced a ratchet feature .  Adding a 1 in front of the models Nos turned them into the ratcheting models No 198 (1913-1922), No 1980 (1914-1944), No 1981 (1914-1917)

My model is the No 1980

MF No 1980 ratchet hand drill.

Probably the smoothest running hand drill I ever picked up.  

And there are three set of gears meshing 1921-1944

Millers Falls, Mass address 1914-1930

Driving wheel red 1915-1944

Patented 10 Jun 1913

The patent No 1,063,984 was submitted Feb 26 1912 and awarded 10 June 1913
It covers both the ratchet and the speed selector (Fast/Slow)

Patent show a slider for switching speed, actual production models

 had a bulbous twist knurled sleeve instead

These two sets of gears are always engaged.

The two speed selector is the knurled cylinder in the middle.

 Pins within determined which gear would be driving the drilling shaft

.

The ratchet selector feature

Pull, turn, reengage down.

The plate under has square holes, and the spring loaded shifter pin has a square edge on one side, 

a bevel on the other.  Depending on orientation it ratchet or not

Pretty simple ratchet mechanism

Handle is bent

There are no front wiper to keep gear engaged  (meshed)

Replaced by the addition of a 3rd gear, idler

1921 -1944

Handle is fixed, non removable

and has no hollow storage.

1925-1944 

3 points chuck operate and align just fine

Ryther's chuck 1922-1944

0-3/8 inch capacity

Side handle is present

and removable

Accordingly my model was fabricated between 1925 and 1930

The speed selector is currently stuck, but I'm working on it
I don't really want to take it apart, but will If I have too
See inside the mechanism   Model shown is No 980, without the ratchet feature (which would made it No 1980)

Finally here is a size comparison

As a rule hand drills are usually less than 15 inches.
At 15-3/4 the No 1980 fall in between a hand drill and a Breast drill

From Top - Bottom

MF No 1  10-1/2 in

MF No 5  12-7/8 in

MF No 2  14-1/2 in

MF No 1980  15-3/4 in

MF No 012 Breast drill  17-1/2 in

He said he had another I may be interested in, came back the next day, he shown me a MF No 012 breast drill, I already have 2 so I passed :-)
Bought a screwdriver instead Moore & Wright ratcheting screwdriver

Bob, where the picking is getting slim...

The draw knife and the slick

Lastly, the two final pieces.
A draw knife stamped EC Co and a slick stamped R R.
Of which I found nothing about...

There were about 4 drawknifes, this is the one I picked.  It had the most usable blade left.

Its a good 10 inch blade

One handle is cracked but still solid

Hard to see but the metal cup washer to peen the end is present

On the other handle, the peen end is sticking out a bit, handle is a bit loose

That is because the cup washer is MIA.

For some strange reasons, I have yet to find one draw-knife 

with nothing wrong handles... And I now have 5, sigh!

The blade looks pretty good on both sides

Nothing serious.  And that is where I focus my attention on when looking.

Handles, can always be replaced.  I can turn new ones.

Which I am overdue to turn some handles... Need a few.

There are no serious rust issues that need to be attended to.  I just ran it under the wire wheel.

The marking CET Co pops out, only stamping I can see.

Had a look on line, did not came up with anything on this stamp. 

If anyone knows anything, please let me know.

They both got a quick pass under the wheel to find some markings.

THE SLICK

I know someone who has been impatiently awaiting to see this one :-)

It is a monster, the edge is 3-5/8 in wide X 14 inches plus the handle.  Yap, its heavy.

The Binford 2000 of the chisel world :-)

Slicks are oversize chisels used mostly in the log building industry.  

Think paring mortise and tenon for a good fit on logs used as beams.

R R is the only markings I found.

NO clue what it stands for.

Gave it a wire wheel looking for more, none found.

Soak the cutting edge overnite to assess condition of edge

Next morning looking at the edge after brushing and rinsing under running water

Pretty good condition, some pitting but nothing serious.

We have lots of good metal. 

Back side of blade

After the wire wheel

After a quick pass on the 80 grit runway

Did not took long to raise a detectable burr, this thing could be made wicked sharp :-)

The back of the edge as a small back bevel on the back 

 and a couple shiny high spots shows up on the back

Yes, it is cutting wood.  Need more work obviously, but I am satisfied that it is capable to being a fine worker.

So why did I say earlier that I knew someone was was impatient to see it?
Because I intent to swap it with him for some other tools :-)

I will leave the final prep work to him, his tool, his choice.  I would gave it a full soaking in Evaporust if I was to keep it, but would require taking apart the handle which is solidly fixed.
I don't really want to remove it, would have to dunk it standing up.

But whatever he decide, I will clean and sharpen it or gave it to him as is.

Bob, taking a break from tools, so many other things calling me.... Squirrels :-)