The Post drill is finally hanging up in my shop

This week we have the visit of our son Levi and family.  With our daughter coming over with her two kids, we had a total of 2 kids (Son and daughter), 5 grandkids and 3 dogs.  Yes, the house is alive with laughter :-)

While he is here, I enlisted him to help me with my Post drill project.  Been getting ready...almost... for a while.  But low on my various priorities lists and definitively need some muscle to help.

The biggest hold up being the potato pretzel shape the back board took on.  Started to plane it by hand, but it is a dense hardwood and needs a lot removed to remove twist so need power.

Before they showed up, I made a planning sled and hot glued shims and board somewhat level and not rocking.  Ran thru planer until there was no twist showing on my winding sticks, then remove from sled and ran the other side to take twist on back side.   Of course that was a lot to take off if I was to make the board perfectly flat and twist free on both side.  In addition the post is not without twist also.

Open garage door, set up planer and chip collection.

Made a quick planer sled to secured the board without rocking.

Shimmed and glued with hot glue.

Once twist is gone, STOP.

Trying to keep it as thick as I can.

Unstick board from sled, turn over and run thru planer without the sled.

You do not need much hot glue to secure board

solidly to sled, just need to shim so board cannot rock.

Sooo I quit the planing early when I was satisfied it was flat enough and twist free enough to mate it to the post.

Lays flat on the bench with no rocking.

Now trying to line up holes and figuring how to mount.

I stained the board to blend the planed area with the rest, a tad prematurely, cause I spend about 2 days hand planing the post and the board to match, flat and in same plane. 

Glamour pic of shavings as I am sweeping :-)

The greenish ones are from the PT post

Finally came to the obvious conclusion that the board sit flatter better on its show side.

So decided to mount the board with old back facing up.  So...plane a quick chamfer on all sides and... Stained areas   

Then I realized there was some insect damages on that side of the board, so I dug it out.  That damages was not visible from the surface before being planed.  Filled with JB Weld wood epoxy, then once dry, stained board one last time :-) 

Then sanded and you guessed it; Stained hopefully for last time :-)

Then It was figuring out how best to approach this monstrosity to hang it up.

Once board is fasten to the beam, I no longer have access to the bolts or nuts behind it.  These must lay flat with the board not to interfere with the fitting on the post.

Another annoyance to be fixed soon.

How to easily raise and lower that big heavy table on the drill press.

After many trips to the hardware store, cause I keep changing my plans on how to best secured drill on post after board is up.  I finally had to... Ugh.. go with metric fasteners. The only frigging bolts of the right size and threads all the way to secured it.  Of course I do not have any Metric sockets whatsoever, only a basic set of Metric wrenches, I had to but a metric 13 mm socket that fit a 3/8 drive ratchet.

The bolts are ran from the back inside a shallow round mortise from Forstner bit with a washer and on show side, I tighten jamming nut (thinner nuts) until they bite in the wood and recessed.  Not going anywhere.  Followed by some testing on the ground, making sure all 4 bolts lined up with the drill.  A bit of tweaking and we were successful and confident it should work, so re-stained what was the back which is now the front.

Next day after stain was dry,  figured out how it will be possible to attach the solid post and table under the drill.   Quickly apparent that pre-mounting the studs up like we did for the drill is not going to work.

So instead recycled one previous attempts, using different bolts (SAE) and T-Nuts under the board so we could simply screw it in from the front.

Checked alignment to make sure everything will line up correctly with some play I will need for final alignment once up.

Using a dowel to verify alignment.

Once everything was tested to my satisfaction, time to screw in the board. 

That went pretty good. Only needed two washers spacers at the top corner and everything lined up pretty good, flat and level.

Then it was finally time to hooked up the drill to the post.

Following pics from my grandson Bentley.

And then install the missing bits, flywheel, column and table, crank handle.

And finally a test drilling.  Success!.. 

Need some lubrication, all the gears are scraped and cleaned of old dirty lube. work as is but will be a lot smoother once properly lubed.

Some mechanical alignment and maybe some timing adjustment and should be all cleared for going back to work.

But for now, it is off my floor and hanging on its post.  I am very happy.

Thank you Levi and Bentley for all your help, could not had done it by myself 

The return of the Post Drill

 It has been a while I had a chance to touch it since Spring.

Now that I am finished with a lot of higher priorities projects and with Jean gone for a few days, I can now go back to it.  I was getting a bit anxious because it is a very messy project, I must go outside to degrease/derust/paint.  We are already late September, won't have many more nice days to work on it outside.

Its been laying around in the garage for a while and it shows

Dusty and with cobwebs.

Brought Jean's small compressor out to blow the dust and dirt out.  It spent the summer in the greenhouse used to blow up pool's toys.

After some final (?) Scraping and a last coat of Krud Kutter paint prep, I brushed a gloss black oil based rust paint.  

I like the way the paint flows and leveled out.  

Easier than trying to spray and better results.

I had some brief short-lived ideas about doing a paint strip job in gold and dry brushing the raised cast letters in red, but reality set in and I must be done SOON 😁

So I'll go with simply dry brushing white paint on it.  All I had was a high temp white spray paint can.  Went to the store shopping

Came back with a paint can of the same fancy rust paint but in white.  A bit overkill yes, but I'll take it. Also got two small foam brushes for the lettering

Oh, that hand drill?

I just happened to be passing by a yard sale or two on my way to the stores:-)

My dry brushing techniques leaves a lot to be desired.

First of all, it was hardly "dry" , had to load paint on the brush often for it to works .  Made a mess with using the foam brush first, which i made messier trying to wipe it off and start again.  So yeah, scraping and repainting later made it better, but I'll touch it up a  bit.

While it is no doubts a very good rust paint, it tends to dry strangely.  Whenever you need to go near it, you will get black marks on you.  Whenever you try to scrape it, it never seems to be dry and you still end up with black marks on your clothes.  Honest Dear, that is my story :-)

The work table, I am not yet, painting the bottom gloss black.  It is currently flat black.  I need some judicious filings to make it sit 90 degrees to spindle.  The cast bracket is slightly twisted, NOT trying to straighten it.  Should be able to correct with some filings and perhaps brass shims??

Top surface will be sanded

the solid steel post also is in need of sanding

The brackets for the post and table 

Found this detail while cleaning the part.  

It is in the back and probably not much visible, but I thought I give it a try.

A lot harder than I thought :-)

Done with re-re-touching the paint, as good as it is gonna get :-)

Some sanding on the rods, reassemble the small parts, lubricate thoroughly, then ready to be mounted on the beam..  I will add the remaining heavy parts AFTER it is up. 

Previously found a period correct oil can oiler

Next, while the paint dry, (eventually) time to go revisit the beam in my shop.

Its been holding up in the shop for more than a year by now.  It has done all its stupid wood tricks and settled by now.

I am going to bolt the post to the main floor joist (where clamp is)

add a spacer to blocking on RHS and lock it with a carriage bolt

Bottom of post is secured in a post cement block.

You can see how much it has twisted since.

The bottom of the post rest in a cement post block for a 6x6.  It is heavy, you will not move the post if you kicked it, while still allowing the post to twist as it needed it

Cross board held by a clamp is by calculated height

for the bottom of the back board on the Post drill.

Final height may vary :-)

Managed to finished another small project, in between paint drying.

The small foot stool which had a broken corner block for its leg.

I previously cut and fitted the two new corner blocks, remained only to attached and colour matched them.

I only needed one block, but I ended up with two and rebuilt one corner from the ground up.

I decided after I glued my blocks, that I should stained it darker brown to match.

Would only be ever seen if looking under stool 

Next it will get recovered... later

For now, it is back into service

Then, since I have now a temporary shelter, I can actually walk all around my poor Unisaw.

The bottom wheeled rack I made years ago is in dire need of paint

I am NOT taking the Unisaw off its wheeled base.

When we came back here in 2011, they broke the button at the end of my T-Square fence.

Never had luck getting a replacement.  Found something close at Busy Bee, but the hole is slightly smaller.  Mine originally had an elongated button, my replacement are rounds like my older Beisemeyer fence I once had

Tapped the hole bigger with correct tap size.

Made effortless cut in that hard Bakelite like plastic.

The molding line was filed off to make it more comfortable.

Screw tight, no looseness

Work like a charm

Magnet is what hold it up.

Winter project, bring in 220V in garage

Added lite to the temporary shelter, next is alarms/security.measures

Bob, scratching his forehead  wondering where these black marks came from on his forehead ?? :-)