Adventure in resawing

I've put my riving effort on temporary hold to get going on a pressing project.
In need to make one, then suddenly, two boxes for a friend.  Special boxes...

For that task, I was given a few special boards coming out of their father's shop.
They are shorts of rough 4/4 boards of quilted and bird's eye maple, mostly and something that look like some sort of Mahogany??

The original plan was to turn pens for all the siblings, but now I need two less pens and two boxes :-(

My first plan was of course to resaw them on our large bandsaw at the wood shop on base.
Quick and simple...

Well,... sorta. I got some boards alright but smaller stock than expected.

Two similar rough boards gave me the small pile of lumber on the right,

 rough cut to my dimension.  Out of it, I got two long sides and one short side, 

I'm short one side for only one box.  And that board in the back

Which, as Rudy is pointing out, is quite tapered

The salvageable length is not the same thickness as my other boards

This is the end thickness I came up with.

Great from my project but material and time consuming.

That bandsaw was really drifting and cupping as judged by my cuts results, while it stay on top and followed my line on top.  Should had check on the tension first I suppose?? Duh!
It was tight, but apparently not tight enough?

Plan B resaw at home by hand,  No biggy, done it before.
Except that these are not pine boards but figured hard maple.

Since I already had the saw out and ready for sharpening, 

may as well touch it up before removing it.

I do have another antique frame resaw but the blade need some attention, a lot more than my daily user, Disston No 8

Option No 3, need some work before

 getting back to earning its keep.

Maybe find or make a new blade??

My boards are a good 1-1/8 inch strong. 

Next was to establish a mark all around centered on the board to aid in resawing.
But what to use, I do not have a resaw plane ...yet...
A quick peek a boo into the magical willow basket of gauges and I came up with this gauge

Stanley No 65 circa early 60s with a full length pin

That worked pretty good, took a few passes 

and encountered a few tricky spots.

Next how to deepen it? That would not be sufficient to guide the saw plate.
Carving and using the saw plate did it for me

I used small palm sized Japanese carving tool

A single bevel knife first to deepen the cut then 

the V groove gouge to enlarged it for the saw plate 

A tad messy but it works.

Notice the stray cut parallel to the colored streak.

Just jumping to follow the grain line.

Dragged the saw plate back and forth to widen

 and deepen the cut.  Shown final depth on one edge

Then it was sawing in diagonals the corner, flipping the board back and forth

cutting across 

Until I finally went down a good two inches...finally, hard maple sure as heck does not resaw as easily as pine :-)

By then I was starting to drift on both sides, time to correct.
At this rate I may have to rethink the power saw options

Were I stopped, about two inches down

Starting to drift right

I am getting 1/2 inch thick boards out of it

Another option on the back burner

And then all too soon it was time to quit and get ready for the grand kids visit :-)

Bob, and Rudy tidying up before they arrived with Grandma