Part 1 The Collector's model years Type 1 to 7 can be found here
TYPE 8 Stanley 1899-1902
All features of Type 7 except;
"S" casting marks eliminated from castings
Only one patent date left on the lateral lever 7-24-88
Notice orientation of Pat dates, was vertical before now horizontal
"B" casting marks on most specimens. B code for foundry name unknown, perhaps Birmingham?
Notice the small size of the central rib and the B casting mark
on the back side of the lever cap
"B" Casting mark on frog.
Same location were the nib or the S mark was
Pics from Ebay
TYPE 9 Stanley 1902-1907
Major changes
All features of Type 8 except;
"B" casting marks eliminated from castings
Patent date eliminated from lateral lever
Bailey name now cast on toe.
This relocated the model No 5 to 8 cast to the heel from the toe
No 5 to 8 now have their model Nos cast on the heel
New style frog and raised frog receiver. Patent dates Mar-25-02 and Aug-19-02
cast on bed behind frog
Pic from my No 7 Type 9. Notice bigger center rib
The original type study doesn't
mention this - It's about this time that the brass nuts used to secure the knob
and tote to the rods undergo a change. They now have a waist to them whereas
the earlier ones are cylindrical over their length.
That was in an effort to reduce the tendency of the brass cylinder to stick to the wood.
The original plain cylinder brass nut for the knob and tote
The new brass nut with a waist
Pic from Ebay
TYPE 10 Stanley 1907-1909
All features of Type 9 except;
Center rib in frog receiver enlarged and arched
A frog adjustment screw, first offered on the Bed Rock planes, is now added. This is located below the frog, and engages a fork that is screwed to the frog. A turn of this screw will move the frog forward or backward, depending on the direction it is turned.
So how best to adjust the frog position? Make the frog face flush with the bed rear mouth area.
Frog back, mouth fully opened.
If the frog is not lined up with the bottom casting, the blade
is not correctly supported
Frog forward, mouth fully closed. With the frog forward, the back bottom of the blade is left unsupported and is more subject to chatter
Pics from Paul Sellers
New trademark on irons starting in 1907
Pic from Bob Kaune
Change in handle design
"STANLEY" in block letters, 5/32 in high
Special trademark on irons, apparently used in 1909 only
Pic from Bob Kaune
TYPE 11 Stanley 1910-1918
All features of Type 10 except;
APR-19-10 patent date now added to previous two cast behind frog
New trademark stamped on irons starting in 1910
Pic from Bob Kaune
TYPE 12 Stanley 1919-1924
All features of Type 11 except;
All planes now equipped with a high front knob
Difference between low and high knob
Waist area on brass nut.
Notice the un-tapered bottom part of the knob
Brass adj. nut is larger, now 1-1/4 in diameter
Type 9 on left Type 13 on right (same as Type 12)
Minor design changes of rib structure on frog just above Adj. nut
Design change to lever cap. The lever cap has a subtle change in its shape - it is not as rounded about the edges as the earlier style is. The lever cam is a bit longer than the old - 1 3/16" vs. 1 3/32".
New trademark stamped on irons of planes. A series of logo changes are found on these planes. All 3 of the logos are the result of the merger between
New trademark stamped on irons of planes manufactured in 1920
Pic from Bob Kaune
The next version, dating from
1921-1922, just has "MADE IN U.S.A" below the heart, in one line that
is longer than the length of the notched rectangle.
Pics from Bob Kaune
The final logo, dating from 1923-1935, is identical to the second, but the "MADE IN U.S.A." line is a hair shorter than the length of the notched rectangle. These new logos are know as the "sweetheart" logo in the tool collecting biz.
1922-1935
1923-1935
Pics from Bob Kaune
This isn't in the original type
study - Some of the lever caps can be found with the outline of the sweetheart
logo cast into the backside. I've only noted one of these planes, a #5, with
this lever cap. Its iron is stamped with the first sweetheart trade- mark.
Another tool pal of mine, from longuyland, has seen one before. These two
examples are the only ones I know of in tooldom. So far, that is.
Again, not found in the
original type study - it's about this time that the backs of the cap iron are
no longer blued, but are just finished like the fronts, with nothing. That bluing that Patrick Leach is talking about look like a mat greyish blue coating. I suppose it was there to help prevent rusting between the blade and its cap iron?
All features of Type 12 except;
U.S. PAT
APR-09-10
Now only markings cast behind frog
STANLEY in notched rectangle now cast on lever cap
"STANLEY ", in a notched rectangle, makes its debut on the lever cap. The original type study doesn't mention it, but there are several treatments of the lever cap, where its finish and the background color of the notched rectangle follow what seems to be a 'style du jour'. I can't date accurately when each of these lever cap treatments occurred, but I can list the order in which I believe they were made:
1. The lever cap is machined and finished as before, with the notched rectangle's background japanned. I believe this to be the earliest since the earliest Bed Rock planes have lever caps of the same treatment (Bed Rock lever caps always had some embossing on them, and the earliest ones have the japanned background). My experience tells me that this lever cap treatment is rather uncommon
2. The entire lever cap is entirely nickel plated, including the background of the notched rectangle.
3.
The lever cap is nickel plated,
but the notched rectangle's background is painted in Stanley 's
trademark orange color.
4.
For a short period, with the
lever cap nickel plated, the notched rectangle's background is decidedly
reddish in color. This may due to Stanley 's
working relationship with Winchester ,
whose planes have the same color. Either that, or someone sabotaged Stanley 's
orange paint supply.
5. The later planes have a yellow background in the notched rectangle. These planes typically have the rounded iron (type 19 and up).
Another thing not mentioned in the type study is that on some examples the frogs have an orange over paint on them. When this was done is during the 20's. Why it was done is unknown. It may have been for a large customer, like
TYPE 14 Stanley 1929-1930
All features of Type 13 except;
MADE IN U.S.A. now added to markings cast on the bed
A raised ring is cast into the bed to act as a receiver for the knob. This is to stem the splitting of the knob, about its base, which was a very common thing to occur. The high knobs (introduced at Type 12) were very prone to this, prior to the introduction of the raised ring, due to the greater leverage capable of being placed on them than could be placed on the low knobs.
Not mentioned in type study's but the bottom of the knob has a slight taper to seat inside the raised ring.
TYPE 15 Stanley 1931-1932
All features of Type 14 except;
MADE IN U.S.A. now cast on bed behind frog
Patent date marking on bed eliminated
Casting markings on the toe changed
TYPE 16 Stanley 1933-1941
All features of Type 15 except;
New trademark stamped on irons starting in 1936
Kidney shape hole now on lever caps
Old style, keyhole
New style, kidney hole
Casting markings on toe changed, now has a raised rib
Design change in frog receiver provides less metal between arched center rib and sides on most specimens of this type
Design changes in frog provides an Ogee shaped back (on top)
Pic from Ebay
Slightly raised receiver now provided for handle along with a reinforcement rib across the toe and heel edge of plane bed
Hang hole is a user mod.
Pic from Ebay
TYPE 17 Stanley 1942-1945
All features of Type 16 except;
These are the war production planes, and all bets about what is and isn't proper on these examples, and those made in the years immediately following, are off. This is an area where the type study is very weak, in my opinion. But it's understandable since there are so many configurations of these planes. My observations tell me that any combination of the following features is possible for these planes. And, to make matters worse, some of the examples have the standard features (rosewood, brass) of the previous type in conjunction with some of the features of this type. This all is likely explained by the fact that
Handle and knob are hardwood stained red or painted black.
Depth adjustment now is smaller, made either of steel or hard rubber
Handles and knobs are of hardwood with dark rosewood stain
During the war, when brass was in high demand, the screw holding
the knob and tote are a one piece steel screw
Wartime castings are noticeably heavier with thicker sides
Frog screw adjust feature not always present
Notice thicker casting sides
Adj. nut maybe be a small diameter steel nut or large diameter of hard black rubber (sequence of apparition unknown)
Large diameter hard rubber wheel
Notice there are no provision for the frog screw adjust
Steel small adj nut. Has provision for the frog adj screw
Unknown if they all have the frog adj. screw
Some specimen have been observed without the frog adj. screw or kidney shaped hole in lever cap
TYPE 18 Stanley 1946-1947
All features of Type 17 except;
Handle (tote) of new design and painted black
The large brass depth adj. nut now have diagonal knurling
Pic from Ebay
Casting are lighter in weight as pre-war production
TYPE 19 Stanley 1948-1961
All features of Type 18 except;
Frog receiver design change provides an arched buttress
Pic from Ebay
Rosewood handles re-introduced in 1949 have a thick varnish nearly obscuring the the wood grain
STANLEY letters on lateral lever are now read vertically
Pic from Ebay
Most brass adj. nuts now have regular parallel knurling
Later models of this type C. 1958-1961 have handles and knobs of hardwood with a dark stain
Pic from Ebay
TYPE 20 Stanley 1962-1967
All features of Type 19 except;
Castings are now painted blue (not japanned), although some are still japanned black, Sequence of apparition unknown
Hardwood handles and knobs have a light color stain
Lateral lever are one piece bent steel, but still has the roller at the end
Top of blade has rounded corners
Pics from Ebay
The rounded edges on top of iron is mostly found with the
Yellow Stanley logo on cap irons
Pics from Ebay
Pic from Ebay
BEYOND TYPE 20
The Maroon Stanley's, from the 70s
Pics from Ebay
Pics from Ebay
The blue Stanley's, Made in England
This recent one Made in England.
Note the very cheesy one piece lateral adj.
Pics from Ebay
The Types 8 to Type 13 are considered by most the very best users. They have all the features you need and were still well made.
Starting at type 16, with the introduction of the Ogee top on the frog, it herald the end of the solid surface frog and it is all downhill in quality from there.
Mind you some of these earliest Ogee frog can still be fettle pretty good and can gives excellent results.
The later version with a rough surface, painted frog and cheesy lateral lever are not worth crap as users.
And that is all she wrote...
Bob, who need a break from his computer. Time to crack open a cold one, cause I deserved it, my friends (with apology to Stumpy :-)
I'll second that it was the Cheetos guy having fun with his orange color.
ReplyDeleteMy absolute favorite types are #2 to #4 but they are hard to find. I would be happy with anything tossed my way from the #11 on down.
Guessing you meant Type 12 to 14 :-)
ReplyDeleteWow, Bob - these two posts are truly a labor of love. Great stuff. Unfortunately for me, most of my Stanley bench planes are type 19. I can still get them to work fairly well, but then I have little to compare to either. I do have a type 5 #4 1/2 that I got from Pat Leach last year, but I'm not sure I've gotten it to work any better that the type 19's.
ReplyDeleteAs long as all the parts fit well, the sole tuned up etc, newer type 19 should work just as good as the old girls.
ReplyDeleteWant better performance put in a matching set of iron-cap iron from LV
Bob
I am glad I found your post. I have a Stanley No 6 Type 9 plane and I was having the devil of time figuring out exactly what it was because as shown in one of your photos this has a base with the high, arched Type 10 rib but without the frog adjusting screw. Virtually all the websites which deal with this subject categorically state that if the plane has the high, arched rib it is a Type 10. They do not even discuss the frog adjusting screw. Unfortunately the lateral lever is missing form mine. I have been looking for a frog which be nearly impossible to find because to be correct it can't have the hole for the fork to screw into but has to fit the higher rib. Probably functionally the regular Type 10 will work. Do you know if the lateral adjusting lever can be replaced? Thanks. Great article. Well done!
ReplyDeleteI Steve
ReplyDeleteGlad you found it useful, yes, it can be a tad confusing trying to type a plane, hence why I did this post.
To answer your questions: Yes you can easily replace the lateral adj lever, it is simply peened in place. Since yours is missing, half the job is done...You can use a small piece of a finish nail as a pin part to be peened.
If you don't have the screw frog adj, its a Type 9, BUT, keep in mind that Stanley used up its parts bins before switching fully to new type. Somewhere between Type 9 and 10 they went thru a series of changes with the arch sizes. Why? Changes in casting necessitated by a different foundry? Problems in casting? Feedback improvement from users? No one seems to know it … yet … The Type 9 frogs are predominantly found with the higher arch, should not be too difficult to find (??) Check NH Plane parts, he has a store on Ebay, I often bought parts from him. Good luck and thanks for stopping by
Bob
I have a #7 That has 2 Patd dates: Mar 25 02 and Aug 19 02. The frog is not arched and has a bailey at the toe. My question is, the frog doesn't come off, can you help me identify? Thanks
ReplyDeleteHi Bob,
ReplyDeleteThis is a great source of info that I refer to regularly when looking for pre type 13 planes!
The other day I acquired a no. 4 type 13 with what I believe to be the original SW iron and also has the lever cap with nothing on the top, but the Stanley/SW logo on the underside.
Is this something that was exclusive to the type 12 no. 5c? Or is that the only planes you’ve seen this type of lever cap on?
I know no one would be able to say without a shadow of a doubt that mine left the factory with it, but is it impossible?
Regards and thanks
Toby
I dunno. What did you based your Type's determination on?
ReplyDeleteI see no pics of your example ??
Bob
Hi Bob, I’m unsure of how to upload a picture to this reply but I determined the age and type of my plane by using your website and another vintage stanley flowchart.
DeleteRegards
Toby
Hi TS Jackson
ReplyDeleteGlad you find it useful.. I started it years ago trying to get a better idea of some of these small changes. Words can be confusing, but a picture is worth a thousand words
Bob
Oups, should had read more comments before answering :-)
ReplyDeleteYes Toby, anything is possible especially when it comes to the iron itself since they are often replaced thru the working life of the tool.
And keep in mind that Stanley never heard of Type studies in the future, they would used up their stocks of parts as they switch over to newer models. So in effect you will often find examples that seems to have a mix of two types features but they should be closely related in time. There is no such thing as the definitive Type study, but they are all based on when the particular features is believed to first came out. Most of these types study, mine included, are based on the pioneering works of Sellens, Walter and others. These have been around since the 80s and 90s, so yes some have updated info. I try to keep mine updated but im only human :-)
Bob
Hi Jonny
ReplyDeleteIf you have the two patents date on the bed that is your most relevant Type No feature. The frog is only held by two flat head screw with a washer under. If they wont come off, try soaking then with WD 40 or similar penetrating's liquid to bust the rust grip.
Just make sure to use the RIGTH size screwdriver so you got the torque and wont damages the slot
Bob, tiring to catch up with comments
Hey bob. I'm a welding carpenter craftsman type person that has fun making a decent living multiple trades knowledge. A few months back I started dragging out some old vintage tools that I had placed on the bottom shelf. Today I drug out pa Scott's (my great grandpa tabscott) old bailey no4 type. Or I think type 9 plane. I would like to restore it. My daddy would get kick out of it. And at 75 years old hes still kicking and taking names. I'm not familiar with these type planes. The ones I've used have cords and a.c. motors. This is how I end this long story------I NEED HELP GETTING SOME PARTS FOR A BAILEY NO.4 . Thanks for reading . Have a blessed day and a merry Christmas
ReplyDeleteHello I recently got a #6 now I know that it's a type 8 so thank you for that, mine has a small stamp on the base where the handle is the stamp is 75½ any information about this would be great. Thank you
ReplyDeleteProbably a casting numbers, used at the foundry to identifies castings for various planes models.
ReplyDeleteMy best WAG
Bob
Thank you Bob much appreciated
DeleteFinding parts for a Number 4 or any other vintage tools is always a mixed bag. Parts are in limited supply, long out of production and the demand increase as people dig them out and try to restore them.
ReplyDeleteSo good luck finding parts and if you do, be prepared for sticker shock. Good news is No 4 and No 5 are plentiful out there. You will find it cheaper and better to get another complete plane than trying to get parts that may or may not fit depending on vintage (Type No)
Bob
I have a type 12 number 5 with sweetheart logo under lever cap
ReplyDeletecorrection, it's a type 9 with the sweetheart logo under lever cap
DeleteI have a Bailey number five, Bailey cast into the toe in front of the knob. Raised ring around the knob. April 19th of 10 patent date behind the Frog. Number five cast into the heel behind the tote. Nothing else cast into the bed , nothing behind the front knob. This should be a type 14, but has no made in USA behind the front knob, what gives?
ReplyDeleteThanks for this. I got a stanley #4 at a resale shop, for $15. It was driving me nuts trying to figure out the type.You solved the mystery, it's a 1970's plane (maroon). The handles are in excellent shape, which is why I bought it. Hope I can use them on other old planes that are better made. Still better than what they are selling for stanleys today with plastic parts.
ReplyDelete