Practice joinery for my boxes done.

It took a lot of work to produce enough flat material for these precious boxes, I did not wanted to risk ruining it.  My first inclination was to dovetail my box corners, but after getting it flat and smooth  I was starting to have second thought.  That  figured maple may look good but it is a tad unruly to tame.  It has been resting in a pile since I resawn it, it seems to be stable, no big twist, cupping or plane propellers materials.

Option two was mitered and splined corners of a contrasting wood, but my stock is on the thin side, just shy of 3/8 in.

Having milled extra stocks, in prevision of troubles, I decided that it would be a good idea to try some test pieces, to see how hard or easy it would be to cut decent dovetails in it.

First order of business was to sharpen my tools: Veritas LA blade (38 degrees), chisel (3/8, 1/4, 1/8 in), scrapers (flat card)
That maple let you know quickly if your tools are not sharp, so...

Next was to find a suitable piece of scrap.  Took a short wide piece and rip saw apart to yield 2 small pieces with the correct grain orientation.
Then the fun began...

I always eyeballs and cut my tails first when cutting dovetails, that's what I learned from Frank Klauz, that's what I prefer and do. Quote: If you want perfect symmetric dovetails, use a router and a jig, this is hand cut dovetails, variation is good!

After cutting my first board, I went over with my squares to make sure every surface was straight before using it as a template for the mating part.

Once happy that everything was good 

I used it as a template to mark its matching side.

Taking care to line things up, I marked my pins.

Yes I got some sloppy overcuts (past the baseline) on that one. 

Notice my boards are not the same width, makes no never mind.

I long switch to using a fret saw to clear most of the waste in my dovetails.

Not only is it fast, but it save lots of wear and tear on your sharp chisels, hint, hint :-)

Only thing, I learned the hard way is you have to let the small blade cool off or it will deform and break.  Yeah, maple is a hard wood :-) 2 or 3 is the max I cut before stopping 

While i wait for the blade to cool off, I start whittling my new horn

 on the EC Atkins mitre saw handle.  Work in progress

First test of the saw cuts, it engage but rather tight, its a good thing.

Need some judicious paring to fall in place 

After glue up, quick planing of the surfaces and a wipe of my Howard's refinisher

I'm happy, not perfect, just like me, but loveable :-)

Ok, now I'm ready for the boxes.  I learned a few things in this experiment and things to pay more attention, but I'll say it is do able.  And just in time cause the day is coming soon...

Bob, relieved and cracking a cold one.