It looked unloved and had some issues, but when asked and he replied $5, it was love at first sight :-)
I also picked up a Canadian Champion BE chisel for a $1 and a MF block plane No 45 missing its adjuster for $5 from other vendors.
EC Atkins was a big player in the saws business, along with Disston and Simonds, as such all three made mitre boxes saws for other manufactures like Stanley and Millers Falls who made miter boxes but never made the saws.
The ones I came across the most with miter boxes or separated in the wild are Disston's, this is the first EC Atkins I came across.
It has a gently curved heel.
Nice touch, your hand will appreciate
Handle looks fine at first glance
The issues with it?
It has a damaged handle. There are split cracks at the bottom and a chunk is broken off the top horn.
See the fracture lines?
Must had been a hard blow.
I can push them apart
The broken top horn
Easy repairs. The saw plate is straight, but has a lot of rust, including some light orangery rust near the toe. Time for a rescue before its too late.
Orange colour is new rust starting
See the name stamped on the spline?
See some part of the etch?
Office is clearly seen and a few other part of words
Came apart easily, the saw nuts had to be punched out with a punch, they were tight.
There is a faint etch, so to protect it, I scraped this blade area only,
other parts saw the wire wheel on some stubborn areas.
The blade is clipped at the heel but looks like its a 22 in plate.
The tooth line stop at 21-1/2 in. We are not loosing any length, that area never see the wood
because of the saw posts
We got almost 5 in at the heel. Love the gently curved heel
And about 4-3/4 at the toe.
Canted blade or miss sharpen?
NO, the plate is sitting crooked in the spline.
The blade is straight, not touching it
Medallion has the Pat date of Dec 27 1887
There is a new site dedicated to Atkins saws, with lots of catalog info
From the 1906 catalog hand saw catalog, page 164
1906
Different stamp on the spline and no apparent etch
The replacement saw nuts and medallions.
They usually never sold you a medallion with their name on it,
but rather a Warranted Superior ones, like all other saw makers.
Pat date in question Dec 27 1887 for the Grover saw nut.
1919
Ah? they are now selling their AAA Atkins spare medallion
1923 catalog
From the 1923 EC Atkins catalog No 19 , page 223 we find the following information on it:
We have a Mitre box No 1 Silver Steel saw, 22 in, 12 TPI with 5 in under the spline.
Handle is applewood
Etch area enlarged
By 1937 the handle is now beech, no longer applewood
and the back spline is blued steel
1950
Notice how the handle has changed
no longer as graceful curves
The last ones made, by Nicholson after their takeover.
Notice new etch. From 1967 catalog
So it would appear that my saw was made around the early 1910s-20s. Applewood is what we will be using to fix the horn.
First, we need to make a straight cut to make a strong bond. Once dried, the block will be shaped to match. What shape? If you look at any handsaw with unbroken horns, you will notice that the top and bottom horns are always the same length. That would be our starting point, and make it similar shape as the bottom one.
Just make sure it fit your hands right, providing the handle size is correct for your hands...
First was to fix the cracks. Titebond II for the large moving cracks,
Krazy glue soaked into the small hairline cracks around it to stabilized it.
Good as new.
For the horn, I need to established a squarer shoulder and flat surface
to glue in a block of wood
You can see the square area cut then split with knife chisel and rasp
with my donor applewood board
Let it dry for at least 24 hrs before starting to shape it.
There would be some stress on the glue line when shaping it.
Once my handle is done, I will re-assemble it and put it away until it comes out to play later on.
At which time it will probably be sharpened. The tooth line as is, looks pretty good.
For now, I have stopped the rust and took care of the problems on the handle.
That would make mitre saw No 6 in my till. Humm, I'm running out of room :-)
Bob, with a new problem on his hands, need a bigger, or another saw till :-)
Were you able to keep the etch visible after cleaning the blade? This is what I found the most difficult. I wish to find the secret recipe of etches revival :).
ReplyDeleteFor cleaning and polish to keep optimum visibility of an etch [or stamp on blades,] go to the Saws, using, collecting, cleaning and restoring Facebook.com [Group] at the top of Home page see Bob Page downloaded File -it has specific procedures for the best process.
DeleteMattjazz123.com
DeleteI have not yet finished cleaning the blade. I just scraped it with the razor, and wire wheeled some bad spots outside the etch area.
ReplyDeleteIt is hard to see, but it does not looks like I erased anything yet...??
Later I will give it a light sanding, with a hard block, to protect the etch area. I too wish for that miracle recipe, but so far As long as some parts of the etch are visible Im happy, but whish to proceed carefully on the next moves, sanding, autosol etc. If it resuscitate the etch, I'll blog about it for sure !!!
Bob, the eternal optimist
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