The Stanley No 82 scraper

A new find, along with a few more, part of a recent estate find.
Finally a tool's distraction and a nice ride in the country side.
And yes, we followed the COVID 19 directives in effects.
And we specifically did not took the truck, we took the car.
If it does not fit in the trunk, we are not taking it Dear :-)

First up is this Stanley scraper No 82.
There were 2 or 3, this is the one I picked up, it was the most solid.
Turns out it is because every thing that is supposed to move is frozen in rust :-)
No biggie.  It has also suffered the age old affliction of gathering paint's splatters thru its life.
All in all a good candidate for a refinishing job.

As found

It is complete with the blade, most often MIA

Stanley No 82

Quite the elaborate tilting mechanism.

This is the Type 2, and the spring is still present

First time I noticed it is when I took this pic.

See it?

Yes, there is a broken lug on the wing nut.

Not surprising, everything is frozen in rust

The weakest link.

Right above the pivot lug, connection to handle.

Because of its design it is easy to apply tremendous down force at this point.

But maybe I worry too much, I have yet to see one broken at this connection.
The Type 1 has a different arrangement.

I mentioned that the blade is often found missing.  This one appear to have the correct blade in place 1-1/2 X 3 inch. You can find or make scraper blade replacements.  It is sharpen just like the No 80, 81 and 83 scraper blades: At 45 degrees (establishing a bevel) then raising a burr.

See the large indentation on the frog surface?

That is to protect the burr you raised, when preparing  both ends.

NO, you will never raise such a big burr, but regardless of size it would be well protected.

Another use is the ability to use those curved paint scraper blades (flat U shape) 

Differences between Type 1 and Type 2

These next four pics from Hugo Lala.  And yes, he cleaned it up, the frame would had been japanned, the adj screws nickel plated and the handle stained a reddish colour.

The Type 1 featured a different connection to the handle 

\

The front knob and screw on lever cap are in a different position

It has no spring.

Markings on front lever cap different

Instead of a wing nut to secure the pivot join, it use a round flat face with a hole, 

so you can insert a nail for extra torque.  Which you need to...

Which one is better?
That would depend on who you ask, so either one is fine, albeit they each have their quirks

This guy (Fine Woodworking) seems to prefer the Type 1, so to each is own.
Myself, it would have to be the Type 2 is my favorite, cause... I don't have a Type 1 ...yet :-)

Patrick seems to imply that the Type 2 is better because of chatter issues?
The Type 1 is said to be more prone to chatter, which was eliminated (?) in the redesigned Type 2 frog, lever cap and spring.

Another difference is in locking the pivot joint.  The Type 2 used cast serrations (patented) to locks the head solidly at various predetermined positions (Numbers of cast indents).
This results in a more secure, solid connection, which no longer need brute force to lock without slipping.  Hence the nail trick is no longer required.

This is probably why some like it ... better than the other, because with the Type 1 you have unlimited freedom of angle adjustment, but the drawback is that it is difficult to torque and still slip under pressure.
The Type 2 patented serrations fix that problem, but you loose some freedom in adjustment range, now fixed increments.

As to which design is stronger at the weak handle connection?  I have no idea, but I haven't seen nor heard of anywhere yet, of broken ones. So maybe I'm just a worry fart :-)

Finally is it a glorified paint scraper or is it more of a finesse tool?

It is both actually and everything in between. The difference would be in the blade, its preparation and its usage.

When raising a proper burr like on the Cabinet scraper No 80, it will perform just like any other cabinet scraper, cutting fluffy shavings, not dust.
Want to hand scrape flooring boards?  You have a 3 inch blade, this is your tool.
Want to scrape glue lines or scrape paint? Save your good blade, original are not cheap!! Probably more than you probably paid for the tool!
Yes, you can buy reasonably priced blades about $7 for a set (they are 6 in large, cut in half, they will fit) or make your own from other scrapers, saw blades etc...AND you can also uses paint scraper blades, such as these

I had previously gave it a good WD-40 soaking, things are starting to move.

An assortment of commonly available paint scarper blades

Sure enough, just like Patrick said it was for :-)

Front shot.  Not as wide, but sure functional

Tried these serrated scraper razor blades. Thumb up 

I use the soft cushion effect of this clamp to help budge the stuck lever 

cap screw and the half wing nut.  No mar, scratches and lots of available gentle torque

The various part are now soaking in Evaporust.   I will strip and repaint his tool, and try something new to me on the handle and knob.

All in all, a useful and versatile tool.
There are many variations on this tool, from a myriad of makers. Antique: Stanley, Millers Falls, Sargent among others) New one: LV make this one

Manufactured 1909-1958
Type 1 1909-1933
Type 2 1934-1958
Length of handle varies thru the years
Overall length
14 in long 1909-1933 (Type 1)
12-1/2 in long 1934-1940
12 in long 1941-1958



Value? At the end of the day any tools or antiques is only worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it.
To me, if I cannot picture myself putting it back into service, it is worthless.  I'm confident I can salvaged that one, I'm happy.  This tool will live to soldier on another lifetime, but it would had deteriorated fast if not rescued.  Talking of which wait till you see the No 60-1/2,  I got... Severe rust?? or Fixable?? We shall see

Bob, reeking of WD-40 at the keyboard.

Addendum
I finished, for now, cleaning the scraper.

Took it further apart once I found that the pin screw in from one side.  

Was obscured in paint splatters.  Gave it a good soak in Evaporust

Pick at the paint spots with various tools.

Some of the paint splatters almost dissolved in Evaporust

Yes, original blade

STANLEY  MADE IN CAN

The flash picked up more rust, back soaking

Cleaned up, de-rusted, lubricated, re-assembled.

Everything works as advertised, I'm Happy, another successful rescue

Knob and handle still needs to be refinished

and blade sharpen