Tuesday, October 29, 2019

Millers Falls No 85 Duplex fillester

Out of the blue I received this package from an old friend in Ottawa.  In his short note he said that he was cleaning up and sent me these, which he no longer used, wondering if they would be of any use to me.  Silly question, but Yes, of course :-)

What I found inside with the short note.

The two Millers Falls planes and a yet to be identified saw set.  A MF No 4 Bullnose plane (Stanley No 75).  The No 85 (Stanley 78) has the fence but no rod, a broken cap and a replacement made from a solid chunk of copper (heavy :-) and a strange unidentified U shape piece of metal???

Very cool, thank you Denis.

Lets have a closer look at the Millers Falls which are copies of older Stanley designs.

MILLERS FALLS No 85 (Stanley No 78) Duplex rabbet fillister plane.

Its called Duplex, because there are two location for the cutter.  Up front as a Bullnose plane, rear position as a rabbet plane.  The fence can pass under the sole making it a Fillister plane

The earliest Craftsman (Sears) were made by Sargent and the later ones by Millers Falls.

Essentially a copy of the Stanley, with a few twist.  I suppose they just could not resist changing something??

I fetched one of my No 78 (I have two Stanley plus two Record 078)

The fences looks very much the same

This Stanley No 78 being blue is from the 70s
My replacement fence (Older Stanley black)

Surprise, the rod fit perfectly and so does the fence

Well that's interesting, the MF fence fit my rod perfectly, while... 

... the so called Stanley fence does not.

My fence for the Stanley is a replacement part, I got that plane years ago without a depth stop, rod and fence.  I have since acquired more of these planes and spare parts along the way.  Problems with spare parts is that Stanley, Millers Falls, Sargent, Record, Ohio and etc all made similar tools.  But they stopped at being similar.  There are a few quirks between them making parts ID difficult at time.

These two fences and rods are interchangeable, but the screw to tighten the fence on the rod are different.  I know from my spare parts inventory that there are variation in threads pitch, OD of rods etc  Not quite sure yet, which is which??

In this example Stanley (?) and MF.  They differ both in style, length and thread pitch.

Top, believed to be Stanley, bottom, MF. 

Threads on the MF are a bit finer, screw goes in and turn but quickly jam.
I did not measured them but there is about 1 TPI differences.
Close, but no cigar!

What else is different?  The body casting look pretty similar.


The twisted adjuster lever for depth of cut are different.
MF on Left, Stanley on Right 

Here is another difference

The screw holding the chip breaker cap are different.
The larger one is the MF

What about the blades?

Very similar but look at the placement of the slot for the screw.
Left Stanley (offset) Right MF (centered).

Overlay they have just about the same dimensions, save for the slot location.

MF logo, tool steel blade

Can we swap them?

The MF blade in the Stanley body, pushed as far to one side as possible.
Flush on one side...
Flush on the other.  It fits


The Stanley blade in the MF

Definite gap on this side, unable to move blade further on this side.
Does not work.

Interesting differences, glad to have yet another sample to compare on the variations.
All that to say these parts (fence, rod, depth stop) are often missing with this type of planes.  You can find replacement parts here, that is where I get my spare parts usually.
But as you can see there is a few variations in screws threads, size, pitch rods OD and threads etc, etc.
Correct identification is not always easy, and they are sometimes confused between all the various makers.  Buyer beware!!

Its original chip breaker cap was broken and shows signs of having been attempted to repair with an unsound weld.  Very difficult to successfully weld cast iron.  Guessing it failed during the weld clean up.

It was my friend Denis who made the replacement cap out of a single chunk of copper.
Besides being obviously thick, there are two small differences which will impact how it work.

First the nose where the chip curls up is rounded but very thick, the other is the lack of a small raised curve lip on the inside which is meant to curl the shaving outward.  I have not tried it yet, but these two small differences I am guessing will cause the shavings to jam in the throat.
Mind you that type of plane has already a tendency to jam easily, your hands position will help or worsen the situation.

See the small up ridge on the RHS of the Stanley cap (blue).
It is designed to turn the shaving, so they exit up and away toward the other side



Broken original cap.  Shows signs of a previous weld repair that did not take.
Interestingly, this one shows no signs of ever having that small up turned ridge on one side

You can really see that upturned lip on this Sargent No 79 cap (clone of Stanley No 78)

I am going to try to glue it back together.. Seen a new fangled UV cured glue that is suppose to be very strong.  Will see.  The product I want to try is called Bondic, or as they called it, its not a glue :-) 
This product was invented by a Canadian dentist.  There is a lot of pressure exerted on this location, curious to see if Bondic is up to it??

Other than that look and work just as good as the original Stanley, Record and etc.
A definite keeper.  With a few spare parts, it will probably end up in one of my sons (now 3) tool kits.

Thanks a lot Denis, appreciated.

Bob, with something to blog for a change.
Been cleaning up and shredded lots of piles of paper lately.  Fall clean up :-)

17 comments:

  1. Well, what a nice surprise! It would also be very surprising if that Bondic could make the old lever cap good enough to withstand the pressure of tightening down. Please let us know ...

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  2. Yes, indeed. Very nice of him.
    Truthfully, I would be surprised too, if Bondic is up to that task, but what the Heh. Curious minds need to know :-)

    Bob, who must first procure some...

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  3. Now I know who is getting another package from Rhode Island, USA soon!

    All of your descriptions are great but what about the U shaped piece? It could be a shim. Maybe a cutter?

    The slots in the cutters are both centered or close to it. The Stanley is centered on the narrow part and the MF is centered on the width of the edge.

    For your thumbscrews, my gut tells me the coarser threads are the Stanleys. I think they tended in that direction way back when and continued for the sake of interchangeability.

    The thick screw from the lever cap pivot looks like a reuse of a lever cap screw from a bench plane.

    It looks like a fine specimen and with some file time that copper lever cap could be made quite purty. Being softer, you may be able to peen over the edge to get the line of contact on the end but since the screw end is off the blade and the clamping end is on the blade there is line contact already.

    Teeth aren't usually loaded in tension so I wouldn't have high hopes for Bondic. You will be able to do your own fillings with the remnants though. It looks like an interesting material.

    Conventional wisdom for weld and adhesives are that they are strongest in shear. Tension is typically worst. Compression would be greatest but few things fail in compression. Think of when you glue your fingers together by accident and how you would get them apart with minimal pain and damage - tension.

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  4. HI STeve
    Thanks for your insightful comments. NO, I do not think I would be the recipient of Ralph's MF.
    I asked Denis about that piece, he did not knew either, go figure :-)
    Looks like it has some remnants of nickel plating and the hole is reamed on one side. So look commercial made. No idea what it i??? Could very well be totally unrelated to these 3 tools.

    I think the screw on the cap came from the original broken cap. Conversely, the screw on the fence should look similar versus the flat paddle head, from most pictures I've seen on line, but I have no reason to believed the fence is mismatched. I need to put my hand on a Sargent example...

    Bob, still a bit confused between the Stanley/MF/Sargent version of this plane.

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  5. You know Steve, I had to reread your comment twice about the slot being centered on the Stanley blade, before it hit me in the face :-)

    Clever, the Stanley blade looks like it was simply stamped out from a regular block plane blade, whereas you could not do that with the MF, it would require another blade blank to machine the slot not in the regular space.
    Economy of material, I like it

    Bob, who just head slap himself :-)

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    Replies
    1. I would be surprised if there was any intent to keep the profile similar to another blade type and even more surprised if they punched a blade out of an existing blade. To do so would mean diverting soft blanks and re-blanking prior to logo stamp and heat treat. Somewhere in there are face grinding and edge grinding operations that would be between the re-blanking and heat treat. Sounds messy.

      I would be interested in a side by each of the various lever caps and corresponding blades. The ribs you mention, location of the slot center and size of the center bolt may tell a story of why the cap broke in the first place.

      Tiny screws leave more room for material in the lever cap than big screws do. Hmmm.

      I have a Sargent 78 equivalent kicking around but no MFers.

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    2. If you have the fence on it, ill be curious to get your measurements of the rod OD and thread OD, pitch.

      Thanks again
      Bob

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    3. Hi Bob,
      I think I bought that Sargent before I knew those had rods and fences. I looked at today and no rods.

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  6. I'm also interested to learn about the latest miracle adhesive and its effectiveness. If it has any gap filling potential it just might work. The first repair makes me think that it was done with an arc welder, which, given the reheating, might have further weakened the piece at its already weakest spot. Can you also specify the source of the copper and why Denis chose it? I've worked with plumbing copper and have found it 'mushy' and too soft to be reliable. Bronze stock seems to make for better material in this application.

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  7. Hello Pottomacker
    Yes, copper is usually soft, but this hunk of metal is somewhat hardened, it is not the usual soft copper. Why did he used that? Simply because that is what he had at hand at the time to work with.
    What exactly is it? No idea.

    Bondic does have gap filling property, you can build it up then machine. That is what gives me hope that it "may" work?? But as Steve point out, in this application it fail. I just gotta try it out, im intrigued :-)

    Bob, who will probably pick up a trial pack today (?)

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  8. Bob,

    I have the Record version, a #778 from the '80s. Nice plane that I will still use on occasion. It works as well as the newer posh version from LV. If photos would help let me know.

    ken

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  9. ow about the OD of the steel shaft and thread? That would help.

    Thanks Ken

    Bob

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  10. Bob,

    The rod is 5/16", the screw is 3/16" and best I can tell a 24 thread. But my eyes ain't what they were and I don't have a screw in tester, just the little saw tooth thingy.

    ken

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  11. Hello, I just recently acquired a Millers Falls #85. Can you confirm if the handle is supposed to be hollow? I can't tell if I am missing a part/parts or that's the way it was manufactured.

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  12. Yes the handle on the plane body is a hollow casting. It would be much heavier without.

    Bob

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