Decided to have the top open and instead I fastened that part behind with one large dovetail , screwed & glued. A lot of the cabinet weight will be supported on a French cleat attached to this part.
Detail of bottom dovetails, note the joinery has not been cleaned up yet, and the Ogee still need clean up too. And YES the carcase joinery was all done by hand.
The angled sides are screwed, no glue, so I can removed them if I change my mind.
You may noticed that the middle part for the large tray (LH side) is not all the way up. That is because it is an offcut from one of the sides, the angle just happened to worked out nicely.
It won't show and it will still be strong enough to do its part.
The doubled side ones has a small notch because I cut the wrong part before gluing them. Oops! Again no big whoop. And while I am confessing my bloopers, I initially cut one of the side Ogee piece on the wrong side, so I ended up with two left sides. Oops :-)
Who says you cannot drink beer and woodwork! (Kidding)
The dividers have an arc cut into them. It makes for a cleaner look and facilitates the planes removal.
The trays being trimmed with Dadoes pieces for rigidity.
I had to add a small spacer strips behind to ensure solid contact with the angled parts. It also added some rigidity.
The big tray will be glued and screwed to them. The small one will be hinged for access behind, giving me additional storage. Here is a detail of how I will hold the small tray up. Still need to figured out the pointy end and its receiver on the tray.
The end is in sight. Need to attach the trays, one fixed the other hinged.
Which probably means a piece to be added on top and since my trays ended up flushed with the top shelf, the trim is now sticking out, hence I'm worried about the weight of the planes pushing against it. I will then add some support under it.
If I was to redo it, I would ensure the tray lip is resting on top of the shelf instead.
I ended up like this in order to get at least 22 in of length for the planes, because of my stock limitations.
OK, well, I'm making this up as I go, sort of a prototype. The next one would be nicer :-)
Next and last part will be the final look. Probably in a few days. That is where I am today.
Bob
What are your thoughts on the Knew coping saw? Have you used others and can compare it to them? I have an Olsen and I'm not happy with it at all.
ReplyDeleteYes, I have others of course, about 4 :-) I love it, very light. This is the Fret saw BTW, I wanted smaller blades to fit in behind the LN dovetail saw, hence why I bought that one. This is my retirement gift from my CPOs mess, got a $100 gift certificate and went to LV :-) If you have an Older Olson Made in Germany, should be good, newer ones are crap. I like the stiffness of my old Disston and Millers-Falls, good frames. For years I swore only on Olson blades, but I am now trying the Pegas blades that Chris love so much. They are good blades for sure, that's what comes with the Knew concept. The best feature of that saw, besides its unbelievable lightness, as got to be the super fast & easy blade tightening. Love it, well worth the money. The titanium frame is a tad too much IMHO, stick with the Aircraft Aluminum one.
ReplyDeleteBob
Are you being biased on the Aircraft Aluminum? My Olsen is a newer one and the handle comes off using it. I recently bought some Pegas blades to try them out - I've using the blades that came with it.
ReplyDeletePerhaps. Based solely on price/function. The Titanium one does not offer much advantages but sure is sexy looking, a tad bulkier too since they ran out of F22 A/C Titanium :-)
ReplyDeleteI'm all for exotic materials as long as they offer marked advantages, in this case, I cannot justify the add cost increase, but don't let me stop you :-)
Bob, the retired Airforce guy, who me biased for A/C Aluminum...? Got me :-)