The drill post get some overdue attention

Continuing in my ever expanding scope Spring clean up, time to move the post drill out of the garage so I can uncover the Table saw. 

It has been sitting there since I got it a few years back.  Always wanted to stripped it down, clean, de-rusted and paint, lubricated but who am I kidding?  I may never get around to that.  So plan B

Me and Jean will drag it outside the garage , loaded it in the tractor trailer to bring it in the backyard on my cutting grid to be given a quick wash with krud buster, lube and bring it in the basement shop via the outside rear entrance steps and eventually be hanged on a post, which need to be secured first and etc.  

But you have to start somewhere so, lets go.

First lets clear around the post that has been acclimating in my shop for the last 2 years. 

I think it's ready, it has stopped twisting by now :-)

It is secured on top to the joist by one clamp, 

the bottom rest in a cement pier for a 6X6 beam.

You cannot kick the foot out but it can turn as the timber twist and relax.

How temporarily secured on top. With a clamp, which I have been checking

 often to making sure it is still tight.  It was and still is.

The white cables are RG6 leftover from Bell satellite TV.

I currently re-used some for my outside antenna and distribution thought out the house:-)

I need a long bolt to go thru the beam (5-1/4 in square plus the joist, 1-1/2 in )

At least 7 inch plus some threads a good inch. About 8 inch bolt, washers and nut  should do.

Similarly, sized the existing bolts to attach the board on the post.

There are three (3) of them; Two (2) on top, one (1) at the bottom.

Should be OK, but at about 400 pounds, my mind is screaming, needs structural steel skeleton and ... :-)

 

I have long figured out its location, where the post currently stand.  Clear of obstacle thru the door. 

It is not too far into my shop footprint but far enough to make behind it usable space. Now to figured out how high up the post.

The idea is to have the rotation of the driving handle at a comfortable height, not reaching out too far up, not too close that you cannot exert full rotational force etc.  Just remember it is called a POST DRILL for a reason, it goes on a post, not flat against the wall.  The handle length can be adjusted. so picking an approximate height should be good enough.  EG Comfortable.

 

Using my story stick also let me check that the surface I plan on using

 is relatively flat and twist free for my usage.  Bonus.

But where does that put the work table at?  Too high? Too low?? 

Using my story stick, it is obviously too high 

at the maximum height I can comfortably reach.

That is more like it.  Should be a good height. 

Yes, my stick is holding the post :-) 

Just remember that you can always put  a small stool in front for the kids, hint, hint.  But you are the main user, make it comfortable for you. 

Cannot stress the importance of a story stick over fiddling with the thing in mid air while you try to see how it feel.. (Bloody heavy)

Lay a stick beside it, lined up from the top.

My stick is a few inches shorter than the post drill board,

 but long enough to register the important bits from the top.

I register where the center line of rotation is.  Rotate handle and see how far it goes on each side..  Location of drill chuck (variable up/down) and finally height of work surface.

Once you have such a stick hold its top to an approximate height and see where the features lines up on the post..  You can quickly figured out a good height, safely and easier, trust me.

My plans to move it with Jean?

After looking into it, similar models weight around 400 pounds, so, nix that.

I'll wear my back belt and use a life line: I'll call a friend or two :-)

Can't hardly see, but perhaps WARRANTEED??

LANCASTER

PA, U.S.A.

Yes it is a ...

CHAMPION BLOWER & FORGE Co.

Oh, look. its a DRILL.

Now we know :-)

I have yet to find a  model number. But there is a lot of gunky grease on it, it may yet show up.

I used a dowel to center the work table

Then used two sticks to gauge how parallels they are to each other.  

Not bad in this axis, but  not much...horizontally, its twisted to the right.

Not much to adjust, it it stay crooked casting must be twisted, 

not trying to force it.  I could do some judicious filing but...

Will simply add a wooden work surface and shimmed it true.

Wow, I can almost see above the table saw :-)

Yes, there is a poor Unisaw rusting away under there :-(

Oh and those Peak gate kit are another project for the yard, and...

A bandsaw takes a lot less room than a table saw, but it still need room.

Soon, my Minions, soon :-)

While I could see it, I took apart the dust hood on the planer..

When I am in a rush and do not plug in the vacuum, it quickly plug because of my design cobbled together, it exhaust on the side not top.  It works good but jam quickly with no suction.

Note to myself;  Don't be so lazy and clean it sooner next time.

and better yet DO NOT use without hooking up the vacuum.

Cleaned and vacuumed, cutting head now rotate but raising the table is very sticky.  Gave it lots of WD40, left soaking a few hours, I can move it more but at that rate I'll spend the day in the garage, re soaked and left at least overnite.

Meanwhile back in my hand shop, getting ready to finished a few saws I started

Eye candy :-)

And yes, the broken Moores & Wright handle , chipped piece got glue back on, 

its hole gently reamed, the screw de-rusted an filed damages on slot. put back in.

It is almost all better now :-)

And then there are the three heads ready to be re-hafted,   Some of the parts from the Post drill are soaking in evaporust, will see how they come out, before I go nuts with it.  Besides I need at least two days of no rain por favor to somewhat clean it outside.  Its working but gunky.

Bob, who survived the first three days :-)